Finally, some colour and energy! Proudly introducing the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection in 36 and 41 with lacquer dials
Editor’s note: This is a Mind, Body & Soul review review of the new new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection in 36 and 41mm. In addition to our standard long form reviews, we sometimes preview watches in the form of short descriptions, technical specifications and a creative infographic. These short form reviews, or Mind, Body & Soul reviews as we like to call them, are meant for those who are in a rush and wish to get their watch fix fast. For our standard reviews, please head to our review section here.
What is it: The youthful new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection
Why: Because the sad time of Covid-19 needs some life enthused
When released: September 1
Where: Check it out online, ADs soon
Who is it for: For the youth inside a man
How does it do: Energetic. Young. Happy. The new colours of yellow, green, candy pink, turquoise blue and coral red are simply marvellous.
Missing: For the price of 8’300 AUD for 41mm and 7’850 AUD for 36mm (reference 126000), with 70-hours power reserve, there is not a thing lacking about these.
Before we even begin talking about this, I know what’s going through your minds – the 39mm was such a great offering size wise, hitting the sweet spot when it came to the on-wrist appeal. And yes, you would be right, it truly was. The Rolex OP 39 was one of the rare watches that catered to all wrist sizes, petite (like mine) to oversized like Dwayne Johnson. Umm, maybe not the latter, but you get the idea. So yes, in my humble opinion, they shouldn’t have discontinued it. But think about it for a sec though, people with larger wrists, as the aforementioned Mr Rock, they can actually flaunt the Rolex OP 41 now. This, makes sense.
The new Submariner for 2020 ‘Kermit’ is also the same size 41mm. I obviously don’t know the inner workings at Rolex but they seemed to have laid emphasis on larger sized watches this year, and all I can imagine is that they based this on research and demand.
One more thing, the Oyster Perpetual range now comes in the options of 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 41mm – I think Rolex is also pushing thee entry-level watches more towards women at this stage. The earlier range was 39mm/36mm/34mm/31mm/26mm.
Anyway, coming back to the specifications of the new releases.
The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection in 36 and 41 features the brand new automatic winding 3230 manufacture movement – the same movement as the new Submariner – with a ~70-hour power reserve.
Let that sink in for a second; it is the same movement as the new Submariner.
Like all updates from Rolex, I am glad that the new movement is not merely a rehash of the older calibre 3132 but offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.
According to Rolex: “Calibre 3230 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance”.
The earlier 36mm featured the 3132, Manufacture Rolex movement which was again an automatic mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via perpetual rotor. It featured the same -2/+2 sec./day accuracy after casing but a much lower ~48-hours power-reserve.
Other features include the frequency of 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz), 31 rubies, a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, a Rolex overcoil, a large balance wheel with variable inertia, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel, a high-precision regulator via four gold Microstella nuts, a traversing balance bridge and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
The movement is encased inside a newly introduced 41mm diameter (or 36mm diameter) stainless steel case — this piece bears the Superlative Chronometer certification — with a water-resistance of 100m (10 ATM).
The watch face shows the functions of hours, minutes and seconds on stunning lacquer dials in various colours. Simple raised and applied indices and a black peripheral track maintain the cleanliness of the dial, while the steel hands work their magic with time.
Completing the standard Rolex look is the Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel with the reference 72JB10. On this particular Oyster bracelet, the tops of the links are satin-finished, while the sides are polished. It is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp and the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. It is the first time that this extension system has been used on a bracelet for the Oyster Perpetual range.
Personally, I am still waiting for a Rolex OP with a leather strap.
Three stunning new features rule this release: first, the bright, stunning colours. Second, the new generation Oyster Perpetual model has a Chromalight display, where the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in dark conditions. And last but not the least, the new, bigger size of 41mm.
Like I said earlier, as much as I am going to miss the 39mm options, I welcome these new ones in 41mm diameter. Perhaps the most intriguing feature about these is the use of bright colours on a larger dial – I think this would get consumers who want something different from Rolex excited. It opens up a whole new market demographic for the brand, and given these are entry-level watches, Rolex can easily experiment here. Imagine the cry if these were the colours of the new Submariner?
For my money, the new 41mm option is the watch I have been looking for. The idea of owning a classic, trustworthy elegant watch for a low price doesn’t get better than this.
To find out more about the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual and other Rolex watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are courtesy Copyright © Rolex.