The Carl F. Bucherer Manero auction: Swiss luxury meets Swiss Red Cross

The Carl F. Bucherer Manero auction: Swiss luxury meets Swiss Red Cross

I am a fan of Carl F. Bucherer. Heck if it’s good enough for Mr Wick, it sure as hell is darned good enough for me.

I know it’s not a very well known brand, especially here in Australia, and is only beginning to make in-roads in the US market, especially with the marketing tie-ups in movies like John Wick. But in Europe and Asia, it’s pretty well admired. And justly so. 

To put it bluntly, it’s different.

Sure it follows the codebook watch designs used by numerous other brands, but there is a visual difference in Carl F. Bucherer’s watches. Perhaps its the larger sized chronograph appeal or the oversized dress watch look, which while traditionalists might pan, stands out from a distance. 

Recently Carl F. Bucherer participated in a charity event showcasing two of their one-off pieces, and this gave me a good opportunity to briefly introduce the brand on our website.  

Let’s talk about the charity event first. 

Carl F. Bucherer and the Swiss Red Cross have joined hands in aide of a praiseworthy cause: a charity auction to generate funds that will help the Swiss Red Cross continue its vital work.

The Context 

Two donated unique pieces by Carl F. Bucherer were auctioned off recently — Saturday, February 08th at Badrutt’s Palace, St Moritz — at a gala where the brand from Lucerne was in full force to support the Swiss Red Cross’ various water and hygiene projects. 

“As part of our Treasuring Values corporate philosophy, we are therefore committed to long-term partnerships such as with the Swiss Red Cross, to innovative projects and, last but not least, to exceptional timepieces that are exemplars of sustainability.” 

Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer 

The Watches

They have six collections: Heritage, Manero, Patravi, Adamavi, Pathos, and Alacria. The watches we are looking at today belong to the Manero collection.

At the charity gala, two watches were auctioned: Manero Flyback (for men) in rose gold and Manero Monograph (for women) with 50 sparkling diamonds. 

Manero Flyback, reference 00.10919.03.33.01

The movement — calibre CFB 1970  — used is an automatic chronograph movement measuring 30.4mm in diameter and 7.9mm in height. It comprises of 25 jewels and allows for a decent 42-hour power reserve.

The dial inside a 43mm diameter and 14.45mm thick 18K rose gold case with beveled lugs shows the functions of hours, minutes, seconds, a date window at 6’o clock, and a flyback chronograph with minutes and seconds counters on a black sun-ray finished dial. 

Featuring skeletonized hands and a combination of brushed and matte dial finishes, the dial is a stand out feature on the watch. The diamond-shaped hour markers are rose gold-plated appliques that contrast well with the black dial providing for enhanced legibility. The dial is covered with a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. 

It comes on a formal looking Louisiana alligator leather strap with a folding pin buckle in 18K rose gold. 

The water resistance is a bare minimum 30m (3 ATM) on this one.

Manero Monograph, reference 00.10904.03.76.11

The movement — calibre CFB 1962  — used is a manual winding manufacture  chronograph movement measuring 24.6mm in diameter and 4.2mm in height. It comprises of 21 jewels and allows for a decent 42-hour power reserve.

The dial inside a 35mm diameter and 11.00mm thick 18K rose gold case shows the functions of hours, minutes, small seconds, and a chronograph on a white mother-of-pearl dial. 

The dial and bezel are covered in 50 TW VVS diamonds (1.05 carat) with the case protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

It comes on a Louisiana alligator leather strap with a pin buckle in 18K rose gold. 

The water resistance is a bare minimum 30m (3 ATM) on this one as well.

Watch Ya Gonna Do About It

Carl F. Bucherer is one of the few remaining independent family-owned Swiss watch manufacturers that have been synonymous with excellence and innovation since 1888. A subsidiary of the Bucherer Group, it came of its own in 2001, though like we said earlier, it’s a shame that it’s not as popular as it should be. 

To make maters worse, they don’t have any retail partners here in Australia, which makes them even less visible.

Of-course I am not saying that these watches are prefect. They are not. They are fairly expensive and mostly large in diameter. 

To put this into perspective, these watches are larger than Omega Speedmasters and more expensive and don’t have the same space inspired fan following. 

But on the flip-side everywhere you go, you are bound to spot either an Omega or a Tudor. Carl F. Bucherer, well, it’s not that common. 

It is this combination of rarity and classically elegant looks that sets Carl F. Bucherer apart. 

And as for the gala, the watches managed to be auctioned off for a tidy sum of 80’000 CHF. 

To discover more about Carl F. Bucherer watches, head to their website here.