The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife in partnership with MR PORTER is for the gentleman who knows what he wants
Editor’s note: This is a Mind, Body & Soul review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch. In addition to our standard long form reviews, we sometimes preview watches in the form of short descriptions, technical specifications and a creative infographic. These short form reviews, or Mind (stats), Body (design features) & Soul (what’s special) reviews as we like to call them, are meant for those who are in a rush and wish to get their watch fix fast. For our standard reviews, please head to our review section here.
What is it: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife
Why: Specially adapted for The King’s Man, the upcoming Kingsman film
When released: July, available online on MR PORTER now
Where: Online on MR PORTER for now, then at boutiques from September. Limited edition of 100 pieces only
Who is it for: For the dapper gentleman in you
How does it do: Sleek and sexy, oozes royal charm. The triangular arch encasing the uniquely placed crown is simply mesmerising.
Missing: A display case-back would be amazing given it’s only got a 30m water-resistance; since straps have to be custom, wouldn’t mind JLC including a couple of spare options in different colours, maybe inspired by the movie’s wardrobe. Also release a non-precious metal version, at a more accessible price-point. The previous movies had tie-ins with TAG Heuer & Bremont and offered much more accessibly priced pieces.
Any watch that I remember instinctively from a movie is usually a more affordable option: Heuer Monaco from Le Mans, Benrus from Bullitt, JLC Reverso Grand Taille from the ‘dark’ Batman series, Rolex Datejust in American Psycho, Seiko 6105 from Apocalypse Now, or Hamilton Ventura XXL from Men in Black to name a few.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife in partnership with MR PORTER (reference: 3402393) features a manual winding calibre 849 movement with a 36-hour power reserve. The 20.20mm diameter and only 1.85mm thick movement comprises of 19 jewels, 123 components, beats at the frequency of 3Hz (21,600 Vph), and offers a 35-hour power reserve.
The movement is encased inside a 40mm diameter and 4.25mm thick 18-karat rose gold case — this piece has been certified in accordance with the Hallmarking Act 1973 — with a water-resistance of 30m (3 ATM). The case features an engraved case back and an uniquely placed crown at 12’o clock.
The watch face shows the functions of hours and minutes only on an off-white grain textured dial that is so beautifully contrasted against the rose gold case. Simple black indices and a black peripheral track maintain the cleanliness of the dial, while the blued hands work their magic with time.
Completing the look is the pin buckle-fastening brown USA alligator strap which excellently complements the case.
It’s an ultra-thin watch from the masters of ultra-thin watches. Besides Piaget, I think JLC is the only Maison to manufacture high-level movements and package them ever so elegantly. For the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch, the Maison drew inspiration from its own archives, specifically the 1907 ‘Couteau’ — couteau is French for knife — pocket watch. In terms of aesthetics it is also similar to the 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 1907 that was even slimmer coming in at 4.05mm in width. It didn’t have the crown at 12’o clock though.
The combined effect of an off-white dial framed by a rose gold body with blued hands telling time is borderline aphrodisiac. The detailing at 12’o clock is spectacular and makes this piece pretty unique. As a matter of fact barring the Omega Bullhead Co-Axial Chronograph 43x43mm reference 184.108.40.206.02.001, I don’t think I have seen a watch from a major luxury Swiss brand that features a crown at 12’o clock.
Ultra-thin watches are nothing novel. Dethroning the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Squelette as the thinnest mechanical watch on the market, in May this year Piaget unveiled the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept, that at only 2mm thickness now holds the record for the thinnest mechanical watch.
It is the knife like appearance of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch that sets it apart. Drawing design cues from traditional pocket watches, it features a very broad bezel that slopes gently from the sapphire crystal to the edge of the case, thereby creating a fine profile reminiscent of a knife blade. To top it up, the winding crown is protected by a triangular bow. The bezel is sort of split up into two concentric circles, that not only mimic the inner circle of the dial but also makes the watch look smaller visually.
The beauty of this particular piece lies in the triangular arch that finds itself making way into the custom strap. Different and dapper, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch, especially adapted for The King’s Man, the upcoming Kingsman origins film directed by Matthew Vaughn, is for those who seek the finer things in life.
To find out more about the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch and other JLC watches, please head to their website here. To purchase this watch, costing ~A$44,893 (taxes and duties included), please head to the MR PORTER website here. All images unless otherwise stated are courtesy Copyright “©Jaeger-LeCoultre”. All rights reserved.