The stunning H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red charms with its playful simplicity
Editor’s note: This is a Mind (stats), Body (design features) & Soul (what’s special) review of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red watch. For our detailed reviews, please head to our dedicated review section here.
What is it: The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red
Why: Because we can never have too much of H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie. Besides, in a year such as 2020, this stunning burst of red fumé is very welcome
When released: 9th July 2020
Where: Non-limited edition, global market release though given the press release says for the colour that “in certain cultures, it is a symbol of joy and good fortune,” my guess is that it’s targeted at the Chinese market. Available at authorised retailers and through the link here.
Who is it for: For the lovers of colour and fumé sunburst pattern dials or AKA lovers of insane wrist appeal. Also for those connoisseurs who like to not be a part of the herd and wear distinctive timepieces
How does it do: Bold and bright red, it’s not for the faint at heart. The stunning dial like most Moser watches is the star. Legibility is on par with any other distinctive timepiece out there, with the ‘Swiss Mad Red fumé’ dial featuring faceted indices that are topped with Superluminova®-filled dots. The partially skeletonised hour and minute hands also boast of Superluminova® luminescent elements. But it’s not solely about the dial though; it’s non-pm stainless steel case, 120m water-resistance and minimum of 3-days power reserve all hark to the same thing: it is an excellent daily wear watch with a personality of its own.
Missing: I wouldn’t mind the diameter to be a bit smaller, as 42.8mm is fairly large for my 6 inch wrists. But that’s a personal take, and for those with large wrists, this should not be an issue. That said, they should release a 39mm date version of this, maybe at even a slightly cheaper price point.
The reference 3200-1207 features the calibre HMC 200, which is a self-winding manufacture movement beating at the frequency of 3Hz (21’600 A/h). The 32mm diameter and 5.5mm thick movement comprises of 27 jewels and boasts of a very decent min. 3-day power reserve. To get into more detail, it is an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system featuring an original Straumann® hairspring with flat overcoil, hacking seconds mechanism, and a H. Moser hallmark engraved oscillating weight with the Moser stripes finish and can be admired via the display case back.
Designed, developed and produced in-house, this calibre is equipped with a regulating organ manufactured by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. It is used fair regularly in Moser’s timepieces including the stunning Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept ref. 1200-1218. This limited to 50 pieces steel model features the Funky Blue fumé dial and purple seconds hand on a grey alligator leather strap.
The movement is encased inside a 42.8mm diameter and 10.60mm thick — sans sapphire crystal — solid steel case that with its mix of polished and brushed surfaces doesn’t feel less plush just because it belongs to the brand’s entry level offering. The case itself is pretty sculpted with angular and bevelled lugs but the most striking feature about it are the four indents on the sides. We have already mentioned that the timepiece offers a 120m water-resistance and that’s achieved thanks to the engraved with an ‘M’ screw-down crown.
The watch comes on a rubber strap with a steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo, and personally that is a deal breaker for me. I understand that due to a decent water-resistance and marketing this as a daily wear watch would be the factors behind going for a rubber strap, but for a timepiece that looks as elegant as this, and costs upwards of 10k CHF, an additional leather strap with deployant buckle seems necessary.
The timepiece is excellent, so let’s talk about the price tag of 12’900 CHF for a second. Now for a time only piece the price may seem a bit high at first, and it is too, but when you take into account the use of rather rare fumé dial, and the fact that the watch is 100% Swiss Made, combined with the knowledge that not everyone you meet will be wearing this same timepiece, the pricing begin to seem rather reasonable. Though like I have said in the beginning of this review, a cheaper, smaller diameter version would be highly welcome.
It suffices to say that the relatively new H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red charms with its playful simplicity. The brand has carved out a name for itself due to its distinctive design language, and this release doesn’t disappoint.
The Swiss Mad Red fumé dial with sunburst pattern with appliqué indexes and hour markers in Superluminova® is subtle poetry for the wrists. The partially skeletonised but Superluminova® luminescent in-filled leaf-shaped hands further complement the pristine look of the dial.
These sportier and more casual offerings from the brand that are also available in blue and green dials are a step in right direction from an industry that of late seems hell bent on producing similar steel integrated sports bracelet watches over and over again.
Nothing wrong with that, but if you are tired of those, then just a simpler, more casual sports watch like the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red is just what the doctor ordered.
To find out more about the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red and other H. Moser & Cie timepieces, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are ©MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG. All Rights Reserved.