GET TO THE POINT: Preview Of The New Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER
Editor’s Note: Just need a quick watch fix? This preview of the new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER is a GET TO THE POINT (GTTP) review with all the info you want /need to know QUICK. Let’s get to the point.
Why: VC follows up on the 2018 launch of the Fiftysix collection, this time at Abbey Road Studio Two with this petrol blue dial that has been specially developed for this new 30-piece only, exclusive collection for MR PORTER. VC is Abbey Road’s timing partner.
When released: 16 December 2020
Where: On pre-order now. Limited and numbered edition of 30 pieces only available on MR PORTER for €17’800
Who is it for: The exclusiveness seeker
How does it do: It is a handsome retro-contemporary style timepiece that is characterised by the exclusive petrol blue dial that is complemented by a matt-textured sepia brown calfskin strap with a polished half Maltese cross-shaped stainless steel folding clasp.
It’s an elegant timepiece that in its 40mm avatar with the useful day-date complication is for the gentleman who likes to wear timepieces influenced by the 1950s but wants to rock the watch scene with something modern and exclusive. And combine the fact that besides the dial, the availability of only 30-pieces and the source MR PORTER are also exclusive, the new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER is simply one not to be missed.
This particle offering also stands out due to:
- The presence of a sector-type dial that in blue is simply an eye-catcher
- Three different finishes — opaline, sunburst and snailed, from the centre to the rim — on the dial lends to it a certain play of surface and textures
- Legibility is key in a timepiece’s pursuit of success and the new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER doesn’t disappoint – the alternating Arabic numerals and raised appliqué hour-markers ensure further play of depth and legibility.
- The 18K gold hour and minute hands punctuate the dial of this timepiece, while the 18K white gold hour-markers aide nighttime legibility thanks to a blue luminescent material in-fill
- The open-worked 22-karat gold oscillating weight inspired by the Maltese cross adds to the finesse of the movement
- According to the brand, the movement allows the wearer to “admire the Côtes de Genève pattern adorning the mainplate. This weight also benefits from a rotation system equipped with ceramic ballbearings, thereby dispensing with any need for lubrication and guaranteeing the movement’s longevity”.
Vacheron Constantin breathed life in the Fiftysix® collection recently in 2018. The Fiftysix® collection has been inspired by the iconic reference 6073 launched in 1956 as VC’s first water-resistant automatic watch, and managed to introduce a contemporary appeal to an otherwise retro charm. It was launched at London’s legendary Abbey Road Studios in the company of one of its talents, Benjamin Clementine.
Designed for the modern man, and introduced at a relatively ‘entry level’ price for new collectors or up-and-coming Fine Watchmaking connoisseurs, this retro-contemporary addition to the Maison’s lineup is definitely a hot contender to be worn on an everyday basis.
The new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER however, has nothing entry-level about it. It’s a premium offering that looks the part.
From the side on the case, the Fiftysix® collection’s distinctive style of adopting a crown recessed into the case can be noticed. This harps back to the original’s look (1950s models) and is a great added touch that reflects how well the Maison has stayed true to their roots. On closer inspection the next aspect that stands out is the use of box-type crystal that covers the dial face. This is another element that calls on the link between the past and the present VC is trying to achieve with this. The distinctive shape of the sapphire box-type crystal — historically made from Plexiglas or mineral glass — can be seen rising well above the bezel.
Missing: The power-reserve indicator clutters the dial and makes it fairly busy. The sector-type dial is much more handsome without it I reckon. Also, for a timeline that looks like an excellent mix of dress and sports watch, a 30m only water-resistance is a bit low.
Basic Specs: The new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER ref. 4400E/000A-B943 features the automatic Calibre 2475 SC/2 developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. This 26.2 mm (11¼’’’) diameter and 5.7 mm thick movement bearing the Hallmark of Geneva seal beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz (28’800 vph), boasts of 40-hours power-reserve, and comprises of 264 components and 27 jewels.
The movement is encased inside a 40m diameter and 11.6mm thick stainless steel case with a transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
To find out more about the new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix MR PORTER and other VC watches, please head to their website here. To purchase or pre-order these watches on MR PORTER, please head here. We may earn a commission from any links on this page at no extra cost to you, and we do not let this influence our editorial opinion. All images unless otherwise stated are courtesy ©2020 Vacheron Constantin. All rights reserved.