Pioneering The World of Horology, One Ecosystem At A Time: Meet All The New Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 Watches
Editor’s note: Like you, we are also excited for the releases from the Watches & Wonders 2021. Our coverage is going to be split into 3 categories: deep-dive hands-on, shorter Gut Reaction Reviews (Grr…), and these nut-shell previews. This is an Overview of all the new Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 Watches. For our other detailed hands-on reviews, please head to our dedicated reviews section here.
Shaking hands with nature
Water is life. Ocean’s are made of water. You mess with the ocean’s, ergo, you mess with life. This, in a nutshell, is Panerai’s message with their new 2021 releases.
It’s not often we get the opportunity to commend brands on the work they are doing in the grand scheme of life besides praising or critiquing their products. So when I watched Panerai’s brand announcement this year and attended the press meeting with their CEO, I realised that I developed a newfound respect for the brand.
Their watches, I always liked; different, iconic, the best of Italian design encasing the best Swiss horological know-how.
But a vast number of this year’s actual Panerai watches are announced keeping in the mind the sustainability of our planet’s natural resources. This year, Panerai is being a part of the solution. For this, they deserve our commendation.
Along with only a handful of other brand’s such as Chopard and Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai is leading the battle for the survival of our planet, and along the way releasing some insanely handsome watches.
A total of 10 references have been released, some limited, some regular production models:
- Submersible eLAB-ID™ ref. PAM01225
- Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte ref. PAM01135 – 200 LE
- Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa ref. PAM01303 – 1000 LE
- Luminor Chrono ref. PAM01109, ref. PAM01218 and ref. PAM01110
- Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso ref. PAM1074
- Luminor Marina eSteel™ , ref. PAM01157, ref. PAM01356, and ref. PAM01358
Submersible eLAB-ID™ ref. PAM01225
In a nutshell: The second eLAB-ID™ that comes 5-years after the inaugural one, the new Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID™ is limited to only 30-pieces and leads this year’s releases when it comes to sustainability and watches:
- The 44m case, the stereotypical sandwich dial and bridges are all composed of EcoTitanium™, a recycled titanium alloy that is a lightweight aerospace-grade metal made of more than 80% pure recycled content
- SuperLuminova™ on its dial and hands is 100% recycled
- Silicon for its movement escapement is again 100% recycled
- Even the sapphire crystal and the gold hands contain recycled based material
In an industry where expertise is not easily shared, we are glad to note that Panerai is making an effort to be as transparent as possible so that other brands can join in this revolution. The new Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID™ is also a joint collaborative effort between Panerai and:
- Laboratorio di Idee, a research and development incubator that drives the brand’s technical advancements
- Siltronix ST, a company that specialises in high tech silicon products and processing
- Sigatec, provider of silicon components including escapement wheel and anchor
- Aubert et Duval supplying EcoTitanium™
- ProCadrans helping make dials out of the sustainable materials
- Monyco and RC Tritec for the recycled SuperLuminova™
- Novo Cristal for recycled sapphire
- Ugitech for steel alloys
- Morellato for the recycled plastic strap
Not only is this concept watch with 98.6% of recycled-based material by weight the highest percentage of recycled-based material watch ever, but it is also aesthetically pleasing. Besides all the ecological and recyclable material, aesthetically, I believe this is one of the most striking and paired down releases from the brand this year. The grey sandwich EcoTitanium™ dial blends seamlessly with the case and the strap, while the ultra-legible light blue luminous hour markers, dots, small seconds window, hands, and the bezel marker all contrast beautifully against this grey while maintaining harmony with the light blue stitching on the strap.
Basic Specs: It features the automatic mechanical caliber P.900e. This 12 ½ lignes diameter and 4.2mm thick movement comprises of 161 components and 17 recycled jewels along with 5 (virgin) jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, features one barrel offering a very impressive three days power-reserve, and for those who like to test their watches with some activity, it features an Incabloc™ anti-shock device. The caliber P.900e provides the functions of hours, minutes, and small seconds at 9’o clock and is cased inside a 44mm diameter brushed EcoTitanium™ case with a unidirectional rotating bezel again in the same material. This bezel features polished knurling and micro-sandblasted engraving. At 3’o clock on the case is the iconic Panerai safety lock crown protection device (protected by trademark). The new Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID™ comes with a screwed caseback in EcoTitanium™ that ensures that the timepiece is impressively water-resistant to 300m (30 ATM). Completing the package is the recycled Grigio Roccia fabric strap with light blue stitching and trapezoidal EcoTitanium™ buckle.
Australian Retail: $89’200
Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte ref. PAM01135
In a nutshell: The new Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte is limited to only 200-pieces only and marks Panerai’s return to designing chronographs, a field the brand has successfully dabbled in since 1943. The identical Luminor case design leads the charge, with a stylishly dark matte black ceramic case giving it substance. Move inwards to the dial and you are treated by the midnight blue dial with satiné soleil decoration that provides more three-dimensional play to the classic sandwich construction. The white Super-LumiNova™ infilled Arabic numerals and indexes provide for exceptional legibility both during the day and night, with the latter changing aesthetics thanks to the green luminescence. I particularly love the geometric symmetry of the watch as a whole: whether be it the left side chronograph pusher balancing the right side crown, or the small seconds indicator at 3 balancing out the am/pm indicator at 9, or the super-impressive 8-day power-reserve indicator at 6 mirroring perfectly the branding text at 12. The new Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte is a geometry class in session.
Basic Specs: It features the in-house hand-wound mechanical calibre P.2004, a movement designed as a tribute to the first chronograph calibre created and developed entirely by Panerai Manufacture. This 13¾ lignes diameter and 8.2mm thick movement is comprised of 321 components and 29 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz and features triple barrels offering a super-impressive 8-days power reserve. The calibre P.2004 is cased inside a 44mm diameter and 19.55mm thick matte black ceramic case and a twelve-sided screwed caseback in titanium with black DLC coating and a sapphire glass display window. The timepiece is water-resistant to 100m (10 ATM). Completing the package is the deep blue with ecru stitching calfskin strap with trapezoidal pin buckle in titanium with black DLC coating. The watch also comes with an additional deep blue rubber strap.
Australian Retail: $32’500
Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa ref. PAM01303
In a nutshell: The new Panerai Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa is limited to 1000-pieces and is launched to celebrate the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team. The most striking feature is the subtle use of red on the watch — the chronograph hands and the strap — and the reverse Heuer Monaco aesthetic: pushers on the opposite side of the crown. The deep blue sandwich satiné soleil finishing dial with sporty graphics and a tachymeter scale on the flange is beautiful, and the red and white details add that extra spark.
Basic Specs: It features a new automatic mechanical calibre P.9200. This 13¼ lignes diameter and 6.9mm thick movement is comprised of 41 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, and features a single barrel with a 42-hour power reserve. Given its sporty timepiece, the movement makes use of an Incabloc™ shockproof device. The calibre P.9200 is cased inside a 44mm diameter and 15.65mm thick brushed steel case with a contrasting brushed bezel. The timepiece is water-resistant to 100m (10 ATM). Completing the package is the blue bi-material in technical fabric and rubber strap (with Luna Rossa personalisation) on a trapezoidal pin buckle in brushed steel. There is also an additional white and red bi-material strap in technical fabric and rubber.
Australian Retail: $13’500
Luminor Chrono ref. PAM01109, ref. PAM01218 and ref. PAM01110
In a nutshell: The new Panerai Luminor Chrono collection is enriched with three variants in black, blue and white dials, all regular production models. These are essentially the same watches as the above Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa, except that the 6’o clock text is changed from ‘Luna Rossa’ to ‘Chronograph’. The matte white dial version ref. PAM01218 is my favourite release from the entire collection, and personal funds permitting, might be the first Panerai in my own collection. The grained finishing that allows the 3 and 6 counters to be visibly more sunken and the angled tachymetre flange ring allows for a more three-dimensional appeal to this particular version. And that subtle touch of blue to the chronograph hands against a mesmerising white backdrop is stellar. The colour of the dial aside, I am falling in love with the: brushed and polished AISI 316L steel bracelet of the satiné soleil finishing blue dial variant. The handsome bracket features a deployant clasp customised with an engraved “OP” logo.
Basic Specs: All variations feature the same as the Luna Rossa model engine, the new automatic mechanical calibre P.9200. The specifications read the same as well.
Australian Retail: $13’200 ($14’400 on bracelet)
Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso ref. PAM1074
In a nutshell: I have a love-hate relationship with bronze watches. Sometimes I just love the use and execution of the material on a watch as it lends a distinctive character, whereas, at other times, I just can’t stand it, as it looks tacky and forced. The new Panerai Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso marks 10 years of Panerai’s tryst with this material, and fortunately, this timepiece falls under the former category of my likes and dislikes. The main reason for my liking the use of bronze here is that the shade of the matte blue of the dial used beautifully complements the earthly vibe of the case. It’s a perfect example of ice meets warmth. Along with the raised appliqué hour markers, the presence of a thick bezel also adds a welcome play of depth to the dial. It is a boutique-only exclusive and will be produced in limited numbers of 1,000 pieces per year.
Basic Specs: It features an in-house automatic mechanical calibre P.900. This 12½ lignes diameter and 4.2mm thick movement is comprised of 171 components, 23 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, and features an impressive 3-day power reserve. The calibre P.9200 is cased inside a smaller wrist-friendly 42mm diameter and 14.37mm thick bronze case with a matching unidirectional rotating bronze bezel with engraved graduated scale. The timepiece is water-resistant to 300m (10 ATM). Completing the package is the vintage blue suede strap with ecru stitching with a bronze trapezoidal pin buckle. The watch also comes with an additional rubber strap in blue.
Australian Retail: $23’100
Luminor Marina eSteel™ ref. PAM01157, ref. PAM01356, and ref. PAM01358
In a nutshell: Rounding up the new Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 watches on the same high-note of environmentally conscious watches are the new Luminor Marina eSteel™ watches in three variants: the polished Blu Profondo gradient eSteel™ dialled PAM01157, the boutique and e-commerce exclusive polished Verde Smeraldo gradient eSteel™ dialled PAM01356 and the polished Grigio Roccia gradient eSteel™ dialled PAM01358. Going with the unofficial theme of green watches from this year’s W&W 2021 releases across most brands, my pick out of the three is the Verde Smeraldo version. Aesthetically, I really like the contrasting surface treatments on the case, with the brushed case balancing nicely with the polished bezel. And the quirky addition of a rubberised crown adds a dose of charm.
The main attraction with these of course is the use of recycled-based material eSteel™ that is used for case and dials. The brand informs us that “89g of the Luminor Marina eSteel™ components are made of recycled-based materials, corresponding to the 58.4% of the total weight of the watch (that is 152.4g)”. And fret not, this new alloy material meets the same rigorous standards demanded of the steel cases used by Panerai and is also corrosion-resistant.
Basic Specs: All variations feature the same automatic mechanical calibre P.9010. This 13¼ lignes diameter and 6.0mm thick movement is comprised of 31 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, and features an impressive 3-day power reserve. The calibre P.9010 is cased inside a 44mm diameter and 15.45mm thick brushed eSteel™ case. The timepiece is water-resistant to 300m (10 ATM). All watches come with matching straps and a storage box made of recycled material.
Australian Retail: $12’700
“We will be very happy if all our peers in Switzerland and around the world get in touch with the same suppliers to use the same materials. The looming environmental crisis will have a global impact, and it will require a global effort to combat it. Panerai is prepared to lead the effort in the watch sector. With Submersible eLAB-ID™, the brand has created a model that will serve as a blueprint for others to follow and build upon. We don’t want to be the only one doing this. Acting alone won’t save the world”.Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué
That’s All Folks!
So there you have it: with ten references spread across six design families, Panerai has welcomed 2021 by bringing out the big guns. And with everything from ladies watches to men’s watches to environmentally friendly watches, the new Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 watch catalogue impresses us more than ever before.
Disruptive is not a word used very often in the watch industry. The new Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 watches change that. The spark for the movement towards more environmentally responsible watch manufacturing has been lit. All we now need is for it spread like wildfire, saving our planet from ourselves (and giving the watch community some amazing timepieces along the way).
Stay tuned for more detailed reviews of individual watches hopefully coming soon. To find out more about the Panerai Watches & Wonders 2021 watches, please head to their website here. You can purchase Panerai watches from Mr Porter here. All images unless otherwise specified are © 2020 PANERAI. Make sure to check out our reviews of other Watches & Wonders 2021 releases here.