New 2020 watch release Greubel Forsey QP à Équation is a major tour de force
Greubel Forsey is one of the most innovative of the independent watch brands in the market today. It then comes as no surprise that their new 2020 watch release Greubel Forsey QP à Équation — released in time for Spring Equinox — features an innovative mix of eye-pleasing vintage-nostalgia-meets-future-tech vibe.
The watch is clearly aimed at men with its masculine overtones in design architecture, and the bold language is further reflected through the various complications the watch features just to create a new kind of Perpetual Calendar complication with an added Equation of Time complication.
Comprising of an impressive number of complications, the Greubel Forsey QP à Équation — first introduced in 2015 — is a major tour de force.
The watch (somewhat uniquely) features complications on both sides: the dial front side and the case back side.
At first glance you will notice that the dial side shows (there are more complications than these but these are the ones that first pop out):
- The hours and the minutes
- The day of the week
- The large date
- The month
Wait, there’s more.
The reverse case-back movement side shows the equation of time and the seasons and the year.
And yes, the watch features four patents as well.
Describing Greubel Forsey movements is like decoding a complicated message.
Its got layers over layers of technical prowess, and perhaps this is why it is one of the best independent watchmakers out there.
Their watches may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it’s hard to ignore their might when it comes to the creativity and effort behind their mechanical genius.
The Easy Part
Let’s get the simpler movement specs out of the way first.
The heart of the watch is a hand-wound movement beating at the frequency of 3Hz (21’600 V/h), features a water resistance of 30m (3 ATM) and boasts of a decent 72 hours power reserve. It consists of 624 parts — the tourbillon cage consisting of 86 parts — and 75 olive-domed jewels in gold chatons.
The movement is cased inside a 5N red gold with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal case that measures in at 43.50mm in diameter and 16.00mm in thickness.
The characteristic Greubel Forsey Hard Part
The movement is a work of art in itself.
The movement measures in at 36.40mm x 9.60mm. It consists of two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. The main plates are frosted nickel silvered, and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, and nickel-palladium treatment.
The bridges again use the same treatment as the main plates and feature 4 engraved gold plates (one with the individual number) and flat black polished steel tourbillon bridges and a synthetic sapphire mechanical computer bridge.
Greubel Forsey’s characteristic tourbillon is inclined at a 25° angle featuring 24-seconds rotation and comprises of light alloy cage pillars, titanium cage bridges and gold counterweight.
Like the movement, the dial is also split into two sections: the front and the back.
As we talked about earlier, the dial on the face front shows the functions of hours, minutes, small seconds, 72-hours power reserve on a sector, day of the week, large date and month, leap year, and a day-and-night with red safety zone complication.
From a distance, the visually striking dial is a Millésimé chocolate-coloured beauty with amazing vintage vibes.
Upon closer inspection, you will notice that it is in-fact a multi-level gold dial with chocolate-colouring featuring gold hour markers for exceptional legibility.
You would think that the readability of the dial that features so many complications would be messy and inadequate. But not here. The dial of QP à Équation is surprising clean and highly legible.
The watch achieves this as the hours and minutes are in polished gold with Super-LumiNova, and the small seconds and power-reserve are in polished gold that shine against the chocolate brown dial base. Then there is the leap year complication in polished steel with black treatment that stands out against the rest of the brown/gold theme.
The gold perpetual calendar aperture with polished raised engraving and the gold GF logo at 12’o clock further enhance the dial’s legibility.
Finally, the 12 in Arabic numerals is big, bold and beautiful — like the 60 in the new H. Moser & Cie Streamliner integrated bracelet watch — right at the top of the dial. And the odd bursts of red on the dial help bring in a playful sense of colour to it as well.
Talking about colours, the back side of the dial is full of them. The use of colours is not excessive, just restrained, lending the dial with a fun yet serious tone.
In terms of complications, the back side features the equation of time with month, season, solstice and equinox complication and the calendar year.
To compliment this classy, vintage and futuristic — all combined in one — look, the QP à Équation comes on a hand-sewn alligator strap with a 5N red gold folding clasp. As an added detail, the clasp also features a hand-engraved GF logo.
Watch Ya Gonna Do About It?
Even if I ignore all the complications on this watch, and simply strip the watch face of everything but the hours and minutes hands, the gold on brown look is a winner.
This watch would still be one of the most eye-catching watches of 2020.
Now throw in the 12 to 15 — depends on how you count — complications in the mix, and what you have is one hell of a watch.
The multiple use of GF logo visually ties in the different parts of the watch as a whole: the gold GF logo on the dial matches with the above mentioned hand-engraved GF logo on the clasp that in turn syncs with the engraved GF logo in 5N red gold on the crown at 3’o clock.
And given that the new 2020 watch release Greubel Forsey QP à Équation is not a limited edition release, for serious watch collectors, this is one that should steal the show.
For more information on this watch and other Greubel Forsey watches, head to their website here.