Editor’s Note: Just need a quick watch fix? This preview of the new Patek Philippe 5905 is a GET TO THE POINT (GTTP) review with all the info you want / need to know QUICK. For our actual hands-on reviews, please head to the dedicated section here. Now let’s get to the point.
What Is It
If we have learnt anything in the past 5 years or so, it is that steel is king. This ‘ruler’s’ trusty right-arm is an integrated bracelet. When these two come to play, there is usually heightened anticipation. And when the king is from a brand that’s watch royalty in itself, there is magic.
The new Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 with a green dial and an integrated steel bracelet paves the way for what can perhaps be seen as the next big luxury sports watch (if the limited edition certain versions of the PP Nautilus and AP RO are ever stopped from being produced).
The new Patek Philippe 5905, a self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar, features a striking sun-ray effect olive green dial with exceptional legibility and harmonious symmetry.
First launched in 2015 as a platinum model ref. 5905P-001 with a blue dial and then in 2019 as a rose gold model ref. 5905R-001 with a brown dial, the new Patek Philippe 5905 features a patented Annual Calendar complication that first saw the light of day courtesy none other than Patek itself back in 1996 with the reference 5035.
Basic Specifications of the new Patek Philippe 5905
- 42mm diameter steel case with an integrated bracelet
- 14.13mm case thickness
- 50.4mm lug-to-lug spacing
- 22mm lug interhorn spacing
- 30m water-resistance
- First announced on 14 October 2021
Inside, carries on about its daily business if kept wound the 33mm x 7.68mm automatic movement Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H.
This in-house movement features 402 components and 37 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, provides a min. 45 and max. 55-hour power-reserve, and is equipped with a traditional column wheel with a vertical disk-type clutch rather than a toothed- wheel horizontal clutch.
The brand informs us that “causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st”.
Underneath the sapphire crystal of the display caseback, the Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H also features the use of a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and a decently finished unidirectional winding 21K gold central rotor.
Contact a boutique near you. In Sydney, both J Farren-Price & The Hour Glass are official retailers.
This non- limited edition release retails for 59’140 USD or 51’500 Euro. This works to about 82’000 AUD.
But sadly thanks to the entire flipper attitude scarring the hearts of genuine watch enthusiasts and collectors, the new Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 is currently listed on Chrono24 for anywhere between 119’126 AUD to 272’165 AUD. Just another reason why the new Patek Philippe 5905 looks set to be the next big luxury steel sports watch.
How Does The New Patek Philippe 5905 Do
Given green and steel are hot at the moment and the 5711 is on its way out, it’s no surprise that the Reference 5905 self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar has been released for the first time in steel.
But it is that olive green dial that’s got me the most excited regarding this release. It’s different from the 25-piece limited edition or ‘Conor McGregor Ireland Weir & Sons edition’ from 2020 that featured a more ‘youthful’ shade of green.
Like the majority of the industry, Patek hasn’t shied away with the colour green in 2021. But just like the different pistachio shade of the Breitling B09 Chronograph 40 from 2021, this olive shade is rather unique (though it appears to be very similar to the 2021 Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014).
I am personally a sucker for big date apertures, and the symmetrically balanced apertures in the 5905 for day, date and month from 10 to 2 appeal. The stepped bezel — concave bezel and recessed sides — aesthetic helps in visually reducing the diameter of the watch, giving it a more slim wrist friendly visual. I say visual because one, I haven’t handled this person yet, and two, the dimensions speak of it fitting wrists 7” or more.
The use of rectangular pushers rather than pump-style pushers is welcome, and complements the design of the aperture at 12.
The numerals in the second’s sub-dial display are kind of out of proportions, but they match the overall vibe of the timepiece beautifully. This 60-minute chronograph sub-dial also features a discreet day/night indicator.
Subtle touches define this refined timepiece.
Come to think of it, I would prefer this as a combination of the ref. 5960 but with rectangular pushers and inside a 40mm diameter ref. 5205 case (that inspires the new 5905). That unexpected burst of red in the sub-dial of the 5960 is something else.
Still, the new 5905 charms with its somewhat paired down aesthetics and a clean cut dial that reminds us why the brand does dress watches so well. Only this is meant to be a sporty timepiece, and while with the only 30m water-resistance it’s not really a true sports watch, it still impresses as an alternative.
To top it off, the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A inspired three-link integrated bracelet with contrasting finishes — polished outer links and satin-finish inner links — is designed for practicality and I sure hope anyone with enough AD connections to get this will use this as a sort of daily wearable beauty rather than keeping it locked up.
Whether through that gorgeous shade of green, the presence of the refined 21K gold central rotor, or the finishings including that of the appliqué gold markers and white gold faceted dauphine hands (with luminescent coating), the new Patek Philippe 5905 presents collectors with an exceptional timepiece that’s practical, legible, and handsome.
To find out more about the new Patek Philippe 5905 and other PP watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are © 2021 PATEK PHILIPPE SA.