Editor’s Note: Need a quick watch fix? This preview of the two new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watches is a GET TO THE POINT (GTTP) review with all the info you want / need to know QUICK. For our actual hands-on reviews, please head to the dedicated section here. Now let’s get to the point. This is NOT a sponsor post.
What Is It
As all watch community’s eyes are on the upcoming Watches & Wonders, we are seeing more and more new watch releases in its build-up. H. Moser & Cie is the latest one to join, introducing not one but two versions of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.
One for you, and one for the kid in you.
A “normal” H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue ref. 1800-0204 retailing for 54’000 CHF and a “perpetual calendar for dummies” Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial reference 1800-0205 retaining for 59’000 CHF.
Both these versions come as a 42mm diameter, 11.9mm thick and ~49mm lug-to-lug spaced 18K white gold timepiece with 30m water-resistance. Both the versions feature the same Funky Blue fumé dial with sunburst pattern, (and a discreet H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer or as a decal). They also both come on a hand-stitched beige kudu leather strap with an 18-carat white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.
Inside these limited editions of 20 pieces each ticks the hand-wound Manufacture calibre HMC 800. The 34mm diameter and 6.3mm thick movement beats at the low frequency of 18,000vph, features 32 jewels, and showboats the functions of central hours and minutes, perpetual calendar, date, month indictor (via central hand), subsidiary seconds, power reserve indicator and a leap year cycle indicator.
Most impressively, the calibre HMC 800 provides for a 7-day power reserve. Now that’s contemporary watchmaking for 2022 (and not 38-48 hours).
The movement also features hacking seconds, double barrels for that explosive power reserve, interchangeable Moser escapement, Straumann® hairspring, and pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold. In true Moser style, the movement and components are also hand-finished and decorated.
Following the release of the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse last month, the new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watches are announced on 15 February 2022, as a lead in to this year’s Watches & Wonders.
How Does This Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Do
Perpetual Calendars can be hard to read. Sometimes even cluttered and messy. H. Moser & Cie with its usual savour faire continues to impress the watch collecting community, and the two new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watches with their symmetrically balanced — big date at 3 and power reserve indicator at 9 — and clean dials are no different.
On the canvas of a fumé dial that involves over 200 steps to produce, the sunburst pattern with a gradient colour effect simply enchants. But the brand enhances the dial appeal with the inclusion of an azurage treatment sub-dial at 6, bringing in surface and textural play.
Continuing this fumé filled saga of ravishingly stunning timepieces, H. Moser & Cie is challenging its very own design mantra with the new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial. And even though we are yet to see all the novelties from this year, I gotta admit, this Tutorial version is one of the coolest watches I have seen in recent times.
For a brand that is known for minimalistic designs and often not even including any branding on the dials, to have a dial full of cartoonish text explain the timepiece is pure genius and sheer fun.
It’s horological sarcasm at its best.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial — with drawings and notes summarising its technical specifications — is definitely THE statement piece.
Its ability to take the status quo, flip it, reinvent it, and then simply carry on as if nothing happened is worth applauding. In my opinion the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial is for those who are comfortable with their elaborate watch collections, and wish to add to them a certain pièce de résistance that in essence is a watchmaking powerhouse but in execution is a light-hearted (and successful) attempt at taking life not too seriously.
As for the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, I reckon it is for those who love what the brand does and want to own a rare piece of horological mastery.
For more information on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and other H. Moser & Cie watches, head to their website here. All image sunless otherwise stated are Courtesy ©MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG. All Rights Reserved.