Editor’s note: Like you, we are also excited for the Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties. Before we get to dive deep into them, here’s our preview & Gut Reaction Review (Grr…) of the new Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green alongside the anOrdain green fume dial Model 1. For our detailed hands-on reviews, please head to our dedicated reviews section here. This is NOT a sponsored post.
The More The Merrier
After the recent new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch with delightfully quirky fume dial comes the new Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green ref. 1200-1233. anOrdain on the other hand is in the process of announcing their highly anticipated second generation of Model 2 (currently 2+ years wait-list).
I recently saw some debate on Instagram regarding the dial execution of new Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green ref. 1200-1233. The discussion rather than between the brands ensued more between watch enthusiasts. Someone had said in a comment to anOrdain about creating a version of their Model 1 Green watch without indices back in December 2020, and it seemed like before they could do that, here was the new Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. There were of course numerous other claims.
From the media pictures of both, it appears at first glance that H. Moser & Cie reinterpret the anOrdain Model 1 Fume Dial Green and add their signature pizzaz. And sure they look similar but majority of the watches do – at least Moser and anOrdain are different than most of the stuff out there.
And it made me realise, that in all the hoopla of whose dial is better or who inspired whom, the real essence got lost – both anOrdain and H. Moser & Cie are pioneers in their respective genres; and we mustn’t forget that they are playing for the same team.
Same, same But Different
Let’s start with the anOrdain Model 1 first, purely because in our present times, their vitreous enamel fume dial green dial version came first. Doesn’t make it any better or lesser, just first-come-first-served. Also doesn’t change that H. Moser & Cie has a history with watchmaking that predates anything anOrdain.
The anOrdain Model 1 is a 38mm diameter and 11mm thick polished steel watch with a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm and lug interhorn spacing of 18mm. The case is topped by a sapphire crystal with 6 layers of anti-reflective coating and features 50m water-resistance. Inside their case ticks the tried-and-tested but outsourced ETA 2824-2 that has been modified to remove date position and is also individually regulated. The generic ETA 2824-2 measures 25.6 x 4.6mm, features 25 jewels, beats at the frequency of 4HZ, and offers 38 to 42-hour power reserve. The watch comes with an impressive 5-year warranty and retails just under the 2’000 USD mark.
The green fume dial in the anOrdain Model 1 features vitreous enamel on copper. The brand for the fume dial uses a “domed silver base, stamped in the same way a coin might be” and “start by stamping a sheet of pure silver in a hydraulic press”. To create the green fume dial look, “the dial is textured and polished by hand” in their studio and the “underside of the dial is ‘counter-enamelled’ to prevent the dial from bending when in the kiln”. Then, the “kiln is heated to over 800°C, and the powdered dial is fired”. Finally, the “process is repeated until the correct depth of colour and height are achieved. The final firing gives the dial a smooth sheen”.
The anOrdain Model 1 fume dial also features in-house made and individually thermally treated by hand watch hands.
The Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green ref. 1200-1233 on the other hand measures 40mm in diameter and 11.2mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug spacing of around 48mm. The watch features 30m water-resistance and comes on a grey kudu leather strap. Inside the Moser Lime Green fume dial ref. 1200-1233 ticks the brand’s own caliber HMC 200, which is a self-winding manufacture movement beating at the frequency of 3Hz (21’600 A/h). The 32mm x 5.5mm movement comprises of 27 jewels and features a very decent minimum 3-day power reserve. It is an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system featuring an original Straumann® double hairspring and a H. Moser hallmark engraved oscillating weight. The movement is decorated with the Moser stripes finish and can be admired via the see-through case back. The watch comes with a 2-year warranty and retails at the 25’000 CHF mark.
While the movement used in the Moser Lime Green fume dial ref. 1200-1233 is of a different level and finish, the anOrdain Model 1 fume dial’s ETA 2824-2 can be more easily and inexpensively serviced anywhere in the world. Both these movements reflect the kind of market the brands are going for, and nothing wrong with either of them. Though in a more general sense, I do wish both ETA and Sellita increase the power reserve on their generic movement to be more in line with the modern day.
The Moser Lime Green fumé dial ref. 1200-1233 features a “Grand Feu” enamel Lime Green fume dial with hammered texture, that can look very similar to the anOrdain Model 1 Green fumé dial. Moser uses an approach where “lending a new dynamic to the traditional art form of enamelling with the use of a pattern engrained, as if hammered, onto a gold base and three different colour pigments that are melded together. The result is a textured and immaculate fumé aesthetic for a captivatingly contemporary finish”.
Fume Dial Mania – The Consumer Wins
There is absolutely no denying that in the recent times, thanks to H. Moser & Cie the fume dials revolution has taken off. Brands, luxury or high-end, Longines or Audemars Piguet, micro or indie, they have all jumped on the fume dial bandwagon.
And there is also no arguing that thanks to anOrdain with their their pricing and variety, this revolution has evolved into an accessible product that numerous watch enthusiasts and collectors who might not have the funds for high-end pieces like Moser or AP can now afford.
Without sacrificing on finish or quality, by using outsourced moments, anOrdain has managed to keep the costs down, and make the wrists of many more a happier place.
No doubt Moser operates differently, with in-house movements with exceptional finishings, works with gold dial bases as compared to the copper and silver of anOrdain. But thanks to brands like anOrdain and H. Moser & Cie, we the watch crazed have been treated to so many more options.
The anOrdain Model 1 with Glasgow-made fume enamel dials is pretty well received within the watch enthusiast community, and so is H. Moser & Cie. Moser is one of those brands that has taken the art of high-end watchmaking and impressively turned it into a something more than just watches. With both offering a version of fumé dial, they are essentially the two sides of the same coin.
To venture an analogy, think of this as Rolex Pepsi GMT vs Tudor BB GMT and now Moser Lime Green vs anOrdain Green. Different operating markets, different levels of finishing, different movements, different audiences, but very similar products.
As for what I would like to see? Well, just like Ming and Havid Nagan, anOrdain could perhaps use Schwarz Etienne movements and maybe release a more premium version of their watches. Perhaps a Model 4. And Moser could go the MB&F or Omega route and release a more affordable watch like the M.A.D.1 Red or the new Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch. For the latter idea, and even better, these two can partner up and release a limited-run timepiece that is priced somewhere between 2k and 27k and gives both their fans a chance to embrace the best of both houses. The ball is in their court. Either way, us fans benefit.
To find out more about the new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green Fume Dial please head to their website here. To find out about the anOrdain Model 1 Green fume dial, please head here.