Editor’s note: Like you, we are also excited for the Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties. Before we get to dive deep into them, here’s our preview & Gut Reaction Review (Grr…) of the new Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise collection. For our detailed hands-on reviews, please head to our dedicated reviews section here. This is NOT a sponsored post.
The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise In A Nutshell
As an architect, the Cartier Tank’s design has always fascinated me. As a dress watch wearer, the brand’s recent push towards releasing as many Tank variations as they possibly can in the past two years has left me delighted. So despite ogling at the recent Tank Must Black and Cartier Tank Louis Cartier 2022 watches, I am still hungry for more. And the new Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise — Chinoise is French for Chinese — collection impressed both the Dress watch lover and the architect in me, courtesy the inspiration of elements from Chinese architecture and interior design iconography that have been so masterfully integrated within a new rectangular case.
Within my adult lifetime, since the 2004 Collection Privé Cartier Paris collection, the Cartier Privé has established itself as not your everyday series of watches; it set’s itself apart with unique designs, limited availability, use of precious materials, and a homage to a bygone era of unrestrained opulence and uninhibited grandeur.
Six new Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise are announced, with various dial and case material combinations, with our favourite being the skeletonised yellow gold version with the Chinese architecture inspired design including red and black lacquer elements
I unfortunately don’t have much press information about these, so can’t really delve any deeper, but as far as I know, all these feature a 39.5mm x 29.2mm case. The thickness varies from 6.09mm of the entry-level yellow gold, rose gold or platinum cased sun brushed dial variants to 7.7mm of the yellow gold, platinum or platinum (with case and buckle set with 161 brilliant-cut diamonds) models.
The entry-level versions in this should be powered by the manual-winding calibre 430 MC. This movement is based on the Piaget caliber 430P, and measures 20.5mm in diameter and 2.1mm in thickness, beats at the low frequency of 3Hz, comprises 18 jewels & 131 components, and provides a very basic 36 to 43-hour power reserve.
The skeletonised higher-end models are powered by the manual-winding 9627 MC Skeleton Movement, which should be — I need to get back on this — the same 430 MC but skeletonised and with more (23) jewels.
Parting Thoughts On The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise
Architecturally, the new Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise have taken the design foundations of the original rectangular Tank watches from 1917, but induces an adrenaline-filled dose of Eastern design elements such as the polished and brushed post-and-lintel frame design, that sees two polished bars running parallel to each other on the top and bottom of the case, extending and wrapping themselves around. These are of course derived from the Tank Chinoise 1922 models, but with the major distinction of adapting them to a rectangular car was compared to the original’s square-shape.
As impressed as I am with the new updated design, I do also feel a but saddened by their decision to not continue with the square case. Personally, that would have really departed the design language from the recent influx of Tank Musts and Tank Louis Cartiers, and would have been a more accurate re-edition of one of the best looking dress watches ever produced.
These were announced on 30 March 2022 as part of the Watches & Wonders 2022 March 30 to April 5 (both online and at the Salon). To find out more about the new Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise and their other watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are courtesy are COPYRIGHT © 2022 CARTIER. Make sure to check out our reviews of other Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties here.