Nautilus 5711 Is Back Baby! Quick Overview Of The New Patek Philippe Nautilus Collection From Watches & Wonders 2021
Editor’s note: Like you, we are also excited for the releases from the Watches & Wonders 2021. Our coverage is going to be split into 3 categories: deep-dive hands-on, shorter Gut Reaction Reviews (Grr…), and nut-shell previews. This is the Quick Overview of the new New Patek Philippe Nautilus Collection. For our other detailed hands-on reviews, please head to our dedicated reviews section here.
This year for Watches & Wonders 2021, it’s as if Patek just went ahead and said, ‘let’s show you how it’s done’!
One of the most iconic watches ever, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711 was recently discontinued. Heartbreaks and insult about decade-long wait-lists notwithstanding, there was a huge uproar with the watch community.
But before it bows out completely, the Nautilus is going to set the watch stage on fire, and semi-retire on a high. My only gripe? I was really hoping for the 35-45 hour power-reserve to increase.
Four new Nautilus models have been announced: the ref. 5711/1A-014 with a new dial in sunburst olive green; ref. 5711/1300A-001 with a new and unique combination of stainless steel and baguette diamonds; ref. 5990/1R-001 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph in rose gold with a blue sunburst dial; and ref. 7118/1450R-001 Nautilus Haute Joaillerie with random pavé setting.
In a nutshell: The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 is my pick from this set, and perhaps everyone else’s too. And for a variety of reasons. One, same iconic Genta design in stainless steel. The new dial is simply beautiful. In fact, green seems to be the colour of 2021, with both Cartier and JLC adding green Tank and Reverso respectively. But it’s not just about the shade of colour, it’s also about the execution here; that sunburst looks absolutely stunning. Other than this, the rest is the same familiar Nautilus. On the inside though, there has been a change: it is powered by the automatic 27 x 3.4mm calibre 26-330 S C that is based on caliber 324 S C. The case size is the same 40 x 8.3mm.
In a nutshell: Same specs as above except that the bezel now has a row of 32 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~3.6 ct.). This feminine market targeted piece actually works better — at least in the press pictures with the green colour — in my opinion and I reckon is more versatile than the plain version. I think both men and women will lap this up. The Nautilus’ horizontally embossed dial acts as the perfect backdrop for the slightly rounded baton hands in white gold to sweep revealing the mysteries of time. Anyone who has either worn or owned a Nautilus before will testify to the high comfort level of its bracelet, a charm that the new version retains. Besides fitting snug like a bug in a rug, the subtle alternation of manually polished and satin-finished elements ensures that one can spot a Nautilius a mile away.
Ref. 5990/1R-001 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
In a nutshell: I am always partial to worldtimers and travel watches. Yes, I know no one is really vacationing these days, but hey, you can’t blame a guy for trying now, can you? Anyway, coming back to the watch in hand, the ref. 5990/1 was first launched in stainless steel in 2014. 7 years later, Patek is introducing a new variation, this time replacing the black with the blue sunburst dial. The complications remain the same though: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones) and an analog date at 12 synchronised with local time. It features the self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520 C FUS.
This Nautilus Haute Joaillerie with a random pavé setting is the blinged-out big mama of this collection. Diamond set watches are nothing new for the brand and for this collection. The version shines thanks to the diamond snow-setting on the case, the bezel, and the bracelet. Look inwards and you are mesmerised by the individual rows of diamonds that exhibit a fine undulated relief. Versions of this piece were a part of Patek’s collection from 2013 to 2018, and while they were fairly similar, there are noticeably two differences: a larger 35.2mm diameter as compared to 33.6mm for its predecessors; and the inclusion of 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct.). It features the self-winding caliber 324 S movement with extremely elaborate finissage.
That’s All Folks!
In summation, the Nautilus 5711 is here to stay, even if will not be produced in the iconic blue colour. And if I am not wrong, the retail price has gone up as well. But hey, those who love this — for both genuine and flipping reasons — Patek just gave them a new lifeline. No matter who you are, as long as you like watches, you cannot ignore the charm, hype, demand, and craziness for those watches. And this is one of the reasons why I love to be a part of this industry: it’s delightfully eccentric.
So there you have it: four new Patek Philippe Nautilus models to enrich the thirsty souls of watch connoisseurs. The marriage of fine watchmaking with daily wearable wrist candy doesn’t get better than this.
Stay tuned for a more detailed review coming soon. To find out more about the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Collection and PP watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise specified are © Patek Philippe. Make sure to check out our reviews of other Watches & Wonders 2021 releases here.