Editor’s Note: Just need a quick watch fix? This preview of the new Patek Philippe 5930P is a GET TO THE POINT (GTTP) review with all the info you want / need to know QUICK. For our actual hands-on reviews, please head to the dedicated section here. Now let’s get to the point.
What Is It
The new Patek Philippe 5930P-001 with a green dial (and strap) featuring a delightful circular hand-guilloched pattern. First launched at Baselworld in 2016 with a blue dial, new Patek Philippe 5930P is inspired by a one-of-a-kind Patek model from 1940 (with a mechanism invented by Louis Cottier in the 1930s).
Basic Specifications of the new Patek Philippe 5930P
- 39.5mm diameter platinum case with a diamond at 6’o clock
- 12.86mm case thickness
- 48mm lug-to-lug spacing
- 30m water-resistance
- First announced on 14 October 2021
Inside the new Patek Philippe 5930P rocks the 33mm x 7.97mm automatic movement, the in-house Caliber CH 28-520 HU. The movement features 343 components and 38 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, provides a min. 50 and max. 55-hour power-reserve, and is equipped with a column wheel and the modern disk-type vertical clutch which sees the central chronograph hand being used as a permanent (running) seconds display. This ensures minimal wear and tear without affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve.
Underneath the sapphire crystal of the display caseback, the Caliber CH 28-520 HU also features the use of a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and a decently finished 21K gold central rotor.
Contact a boutique near you. In Sydney, both J Farren-Price & The Hour Glass are official retailers. These are thankfully not a limited edition release — though in the universe of Patek Philippe that’s an oxymoron — and retail for 87’500 Euro or 100’538 USD.
Given the platinum material and the green dial, I can’t seem to let go of the feeling that these are perhaps primarily aimed at the Middle Eastern markets? Which is great as it ticks the boxes — Muslims appreciate the colour green and gold is not generally preferred for men — but perhaps would have benefitted with dedicated limited release for say the famous Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. In my opinion this move makes the new Patek Philippe 5930P more dedicated towards a particular demographic market.
How Does The New Patek Philippe 5930P Do
This platinum cased beauty measures 39.5mm in diameter and 12.86mm in thickness. The only 39.5mm diameter of the new Patek Philippe 5930P is perhaps its best feature, as compared to other worldtimer watches out there, it provides one of the best fits for anyone with slim wrists.
Anyone who has read my reviews and our coverage of the Omega Worldtimer knows my admiration for that model, but if money was no object, the Patek Philippe 5930 or 5230 series would be the way to go. On my slim ~16cm wrists, the 39.5mm diameter with the lug-to-lug spacing of only 48mm is far more befitting than my favourite Omega Aqua Terra Worldtimers’s measurements of 43.5mm diameter and ~50mm lug-to-lug.
The only similarity these two share in regards to dimension is the same 21mm lug interhorn spacing, which frankly is a pain given I refer watches with standard 20mm lug interhorn spacing. The 14.5mm thickness of the Omega again is no match for the under 13mm thickness of the new Patek Philippe 5930P.
Though technically if I you have slim wrists and are going for the best fit, I would recommend the Patek Philippe 5230G-014 World Time over the new Patek Philippe 5930P given the former measures at a more dainty 38.5 x 10.25mm.
Dimensions aside, the monochromatic look of the Patek Philippe 5230G is more ‘matured’ compared to the energy filled aesthetics of the new Patek Philippe 5930P that I personally prefer given it resonates well with 2021’s obsession with green and my age.
And of course there is that added difference with the new Patek Philippe 5930P that sees the inclusion of a flyback chronograph complication that both the Omega Worldtimer — RRP 13’550 AUD — and PP 5230G — ~50’000 AUD — don’t feature.
The one other offering with the same complication combo of worldtimer plus chronograph like the new Patek Philippe 5930P I do like is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Worldtime.
Retailing for only 23’100 AUD compared to the rather high RRP — 87’500 Euro (~136’850 AUD) — of the new Patek Philippe 5930P, it also features a nice better lume, but however, features a much larger case measuring at 44mm diameter, 13mm thickness, and 50.4mm lug-to-lug.
Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, and pricing aside, I genuinely do love the new Patek Philippe 5930P. Symmetrically it is well balanced, with the branding at 12 mirroring the distance from the centre as compared to the distance from the 6’o clock 30-minute chronograph sub-dial. The 5930 dials can appear faintly cluttered, but in person they read well.
For the most part, I am partial to hand-guilloche designs rather than simply stamped or CNC-machined, and I appreciate its use here. And the green printed on white city names add legibility and coherency. Though that said, I wouldn’t mind seeing a different guilloche pattern design that’s a little less generic.
Also, when it comes to the Patek offerings, their World Time function is easy to use: it simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones, and includes a patented mechanism that enables correction of all displays by pressing the pusher at 10’o clock.
Decently water-resistant at 30m — though the Omega Worldtimer’s 150m, Vacheron Constantin ref. 7700V/110A-B172 Overseas Worldtime’s 150m, and Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time’s 100m water-resistance is highly welcome — the new Patek Philippe 5930P with its bright green hand-guilloched dial with gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating and white gold faceted dauphine hands with luminescent coating steals the show.
That’s All Folks!
Well, let’s be honest; the ultra-rich are still travelling, virus or no virus. Those connoisseurs who would like a worldtimer watch par excellence in a colour segue that was hot in 2021, would appreciate the rarified air that the new Patek Philippe 5930P brings with it.
And as for our initial question, whether the new Patek Philippe 5930P can turn the horological world green with envy, the answer lies in who you speak to: if you are someone with slim wrists and is constantly traveling for business or to take exquisite Instagram shots, and you wish to travel in style on your private jet or yacht with the latest from a watchmaker at the pinnacle of the industry, the new Patek Philippe 5930P surely will tick all the right boxes.
To find out more about the new Patek Philippe 5930P and other PP watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are © 2022 PATEK PHILIPPE SA.