Editor’s note: Like you, we are also excited for the Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties. Before we get to dive deep into them, here’s our preview & Gut Reaction Review (Grr…) of the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur. For our detailed hands-on reviews, please head to our dedicated reviews section here. This is NOT a sponsored post.
The New Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur In A Nutshell
Hermès Arceau Collection is growing, and alongside the latest Hermès Arceau Les folies du ciel, the brand is now releasing two new worldtimers. Barring the Patek Philippe worldtimers such as references 5130 and 5131 that are based on a Louis Cottier system from 1930s by Genevan master watchmaker, I can’t think of any high-end small sized worldtimers that would do justice to those globetrotters with slim wrists. Given worldtimers are busy by default as well, smaller sizes end up being even less tackled by the brands. Whether be it the affordable and stylish Omega Aqua Terra World Timer, the absolutely drop dead gorgeous Breguet Marine 5557 Hora Mundi, or the most practical Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time with 37 time zones, they are all rather large at 43mm plus.
Sub-40mm diameter worldtimers are few and far between. The new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur changes that, and thankfully brings two different coloured variations in welcome sizes of 38mm and 41mm to the fold.
Mechanically, the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is also different from the Cottier system – while the Patek method gives the wearer an instant overview of the time in every major time zone, the Hermès versions feature a moving sub-dial that shows current city time with the aide of a fixed bezel while the home time is shown through an oversized aperture at 12’o clock.
Innovate behind the scenes, and artistically impressive on they front, the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is a true star in the making.
My first reaction to the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur was to be impressed with the fact that we at least have something rather novel in the worldtimer complication category from Watches & Wonders 2022. With the legends of this complication Patek sadly sticking to their tried-and-tested waters this year, it becomes incumbent upon brands like Hermès to break the norms and venture into horological territories uncharted. And it is in these horological moments that the true essence of matchmaking lies.
Basic Specs of the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
The larger version of the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur features a 30m water-resistant 41mm diameter platinum case (≈ 21.48 g) and bezel in bead-blasted matt black DLC-treated grade 5 titanium (Ti 88%).
The smaller version features a 30m water-resistant 38mm diameter steel case with lug interhorn spacing of 20mm.
Inside both the versions ticks the 26 x 3.7mm Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement. This base H1837 comprises 193 components and 28 jewels, beats at the standard frequency of 4Hz, provides a 40-hour power reserve, and features nice finishings including circular-grained and snailed baseplate, satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight with signature “sprinkling of Hs” pattern.
On top of this sits the exclusive “Travelling time” module developed by Chronode measuring 32.7 x 4.4mm comprising 122 components and 7 jewels.
It’s for those well traveled and well-off individuals who would like a rather unique worldtimer. The platinum version retails for 28’825 USD and the steel for 22’250 USD. Both of these non-limited worldtimers were announced yesterday on 30 March 2022 as part of the Watches & Wonders 2022 March 30 to April 5 (both online and at the Salon).
Best Foot Forward
The most striking feature about the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is that dial, that is somehow legible to the degree of crime and yet evoke the spirit of other worldtime watches. Two options, one in black and charcoal-grey and the other in shades of blue are presented, with the latter being our favourite (also because of its smaller 38mm case).
Impressively, a number of fine details make up these galvanised dials, with the base featuring blue transferred continent names and contours. The next layer features oceans that are laser-engraved and then lacquered. A layer of blue transferred meridians and parallels enchant. The rotating sub-dial with blue-lacquered gradient rim sets itself apart, and on it the white transferred Arabic numerals clearly indicate the present time. Finally, a circular satin-brushed blue city flange frames this hypnotic dance of multiple time telling wizardry.
“Crafted in platinum and titanium or in steel, its round case with asymmetrical lugs reveals a singular reinterpretation by Hermès of classic Haute Horlogerie complications roaming across the hours of the world, as the “Travelling time” mechanism developed exclusively for Hermès provides a disc-type display of 24 time zones. The satellite gravitates on a fantasy map, imagined by Jérôme Colliard for the “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” silk scarf”.Press release
To find out more about the new Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur and their other watches, please head to their website here. All images unless otherwise stated are courtesy are © Hermès 2022. All rights reserved. Make sure to check out our reviews of other Watches & Wonders 2022 novelties here.